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Raising the Steaks

June 29, 2015
Dons de la Nature
You may have come to Tokyo to feast on all things sushi, soba and ramen, but there’s another quintessentially Japanese speciality that any culinarian worth her chopsticks must also sample while in the capital: Wagyu steak. And one of the best fine-dine destinations to sink your teeth into a hunk of prime, fat-flecked rump is Ginza’s Dons de la Nature.

Despite the French moniker, this subterranean open kitchen serves an all-local lineup of choice cuts taken from perhaps the most pampered bovines on the planet – black-haired beasts who feed on fresh grass and grains, and receive daily massages to promote shimofuri marbling in their muscles.

Every day chef and owner Otsuka selects the best sirloin and fillets, raised in regions like Yonezawa, Kobe and Matsusaka, then ages them for two months in-house to maximise the natural umami flavour of the beef.

Upon descending the stairs into the sandy-hued dining room, you’ll be invited to the counter where you can take your pick of the day’s selection, then simply set yourself down at one of the five tables – ideally with a Bordeaux blend to hand – while your meaty prize is skewered and expertly grilled in a special binchotan charcoal-fired kiln.

The end result is a perfectly crispy, impossibly succulent, medium-rare marvel that requires neither sauce nor sides. Quite simply, it’ll be one of the best steaks you’ve ever had – no bull.

B/F / Kawai Bldg / Ginza 1-7-6 / Chuo-ku / +81 3 3563 4129 / 5:00 pm-10:00 pm Mon-Sat / book ahead /