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Allo, Alléno!

February 19, 2015
Pavillon Ledoyen

In case you haven’t heard, the City of Light’s Champs-Elysées is the perennial flaneur go-to for haute couture and luxury labels, and just a stiletto’s toss from the storied avenue lies one of the city’s most fabled fine diners, Pavillon Ledoyen. Since its beginnings in the C.18th, many a gastronomy legend including Jacques Maximin, Ghislaine Arabian and, up until recently, Christian Le Squer has fired his pan in the hallowed kitchen. And now, commanding the pass (after a year under the radar) is three-Michelin-starred Yannick Alléno, who famously led the culinary direction at Le Meurice.

Within this grandiose temple of crisp white linens, plush armchairs and windows affording views of the surrounding gardens, Alléno wows with a menu of classic Gallic fare given a clever modern twist. Early – and typically indulgent – standouts include poached duck foie gras with Rivesaltes wine, sugar-crusted pear and juniper berries; line-caught turbot with roasted bone marrow and gratinated camus artichoke; and caramel-filled crunchy chocolate with white alba truffle and sea salt. Allow sommelier Vincent Javaux to pair the affair with lesser-known and small-batch wine varieties from all over France, including Burgundies by Serafin Père et Fils. Ah, c’est la vie!

1 ave Dutuit, 8th / Champs-Elysées / +33 1 53 05 10 00 / lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat / book ahead /