With his acclaimed Mexico City-based restaurant Pujol having made numerous appearances on the World’s 50 Best over the past few years, it came as no surprise that chef Enrique Olvera’s decision to open a restaurant in New York was met with, well… squeals of glee. And adding to the buzz further, his new Flatiron concept Cosme forgoes the classic taco for a radically modern take on Mexican cuisine.
Behind the 3,500 sq ft minimalist diner of dim lighting, charcoal walls, potted plants and wooden tables, Olvera’s crack team preps rotating lunch and dinner programs using seasonal ingredients sourced from the Hudson River Valley, plus peppers, corn and chilies grown south of the border. Early standouts include mussel tostada with chipotle mayonnaise; lobster pibil with chorizo and black beans; and a ‘nixtamalised’ parsnip dessert with Greek yoghurt and amaranth ice-cream. Add to that a drinks list of over 70 global pours, Oaxacan-inflected cocktails (think mezcal with vermouth, soursop, lime and absinthe salt), and it’s little wonder Cosme’s already booked up well into 2015. Just thank your (Michelin) stars a few tables are set aside each day for walk-ins. So, either book well ahead, or it’s elbows at the ready!
35 E 21st St (between Broadway & Park Ave) / Flatiron / +1 212 913 9656 / book well ahead / cosmenyc.com