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Raising the Steaks

August 31, 2015
Boeufhaus
Downtown Chicago might play host to a whole herd of high-end meateries, but venture to meadows new (artistic enclave Ukrainian Village) and you’ll find Boeufhaus, a recently unveiled steak-focused brasserie which could just corral its contemporaries out to pasture.  
 
Launched ever so quietly earlier this year by Brian Ahern – former exec chef of Fish Bar – and Jamie Finnegan, this unpretentious diner aptly occupies a space once taken up by a deli and butcher’s shop. And as the portmanteau moniker suggests, the cuisine here is of a deliciously Franco-German leaning.
 
Which brings us onto the satisfyingly compact menu, listing only five sustainably sourced, responsibly raised, grass-fed, grain-finished prime cuts. Ranging from that staple of lean lists steak frites, to a rather pricey 22-ounce, 55-day dry-aged rib eye, all beef is served with a choice of bordelaise, béarnaise or au poivre.
 
But it’s not a complete carne-val, pescies get a look in too with citrus salmon and seared halibut, while even vegetarians can chow down on the signature stracciatella or cauliflower gratin.
 
In keeping with the pared-back a la carte offerings, nearby bottle shop Red & White has curated a catalogue of top drops with a largely Austrian, French and German inflection. Guten appetit!
 
1012 N Western Ave / Ukrainian Village / +1 773 661 2116 / lunch & dinner Tue-Sun / boeufhaus.com
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