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Gourmet German

June 20, 2016
Think German cuisine, and what usually springs to mind? Salty sauerkraut and stodgy schnitzel perhaps? Well, it’s time to banish those culinary clichés, Menschen – Bangkok’s hottest restaurant opening of the year is mod-German. Enter Sürhing.

This delicious debut offering from Teuton twins Thomas and Mathias Sühring (in partnership with Gaggan Anand) is set in a beautiful, laidback-chic house and garden, with nary a pine tree or lace frill in sight. And we’re not talking beer and bratwurst either! Crisp white linens, delicate plating, and a series of pickled and smoked small plates make this a memorable dining experience, lubricated with fresh, fruity wine from ex-Robuchon sommelier Thanakorn Bottorff.

Recipes are personal, gleaned by the brothers from summers spent with their grandmother at the family farm outside Berlin. Think comfort food with an elegant twist, with a wood-grill lending a rustic flavour to nine- or 12-course tasting menus. Try the brotzeit, a sharing plate of house-baked bread with charcuterie, pickles, cheese spread, butter and crackling. Sea trout cooked over cedarwood and lamb saddle on verdant pulses are also a treat to the eye (and Insta feed). Deconstructed Bircher muesli dessert and gran’s eggnog will please the tum too.

These chaps earned their stripes at Bangkok’s Euro-fusion fine-diner Mezzaluna, but they’ve delved deep into their roots here, returning to a more relaxed style. Sit by the open kitchen or go all Tarzan n’ Jane with a table in the foliage-fringed conservatory.
Suhring / 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 / Sathorn / +66 2 287 1799 / dinner daily /