You are currently viewing the website in desktop version.

Back To PenCities

A Cut Above...

March 23, 2015
Sushi Sho
While many chef’s would give their right arm for a Michelin star, veteran sushi sensei Keiji Nakazawa went so far as to snub the advances of the roly-poly Bibendum man. When an inspector repeatedly visited his simple Shinjuku counter Sushi Sho several years ago, Nakazawa determined that the critic’s nigiri knowledge didn’t cut it and, after telling him as much, was subsequently overlooked by the prestigious star-bestowers. Not that the master minded, and nor did his legion of local devotees – with just ten seats it was already hard enough to nab a perch at this venerated nook, before the onslaught of international exposure.

For those savvy souls who do book ahead, the effort is well-rewarded with a fantastic 30+ course omakase experience. While many gourmands (and perhaps the aforementioned inspector was one of them) purport that fresh fish is best, Nakazawa has been instrumental in reviving the art of Edomae aging, where tuna, squid and other seafood are carefully matured for several days to achieve maximum umami impact. Each slice is then moulded around warm, specifically seasoned rice and set before diners paired with a complementing sake. Dishes change daily, but expect bites like mackerel with ginger and shinto leaf. Can’t get in for dinner? The no-res lunchtime bara chirashi set is terrific value – just arrive before noon as they only make 20 a day. Those Mich men don’t know what they’re missing.

Photos by

Yorindo Bldg / 1-11 Yotsuya / Shinjuku / +81 3 3351 6387 / lunch & dinner Mon-Sat / book well ahead