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Top Toque Takes On Thai

July 14, 2014

T for Thai

With an ease and confidence that one might consider ‘typique’ of the French, chef Michael Wendling has made the transition from Gallic to Thai look seamless. Just upstairs from classic charmer Cuivre, the Frenchman has opened a second, and entirely separate concept that devotes its menu to contemporary Thai. However, industry pundits know better: Wendling has spent the last year – no less – studying the country’s cooking technique with Bangkok’s best restaurants, among them Bo.Lan and Soul Food, and fiercest streetfood vendors.

The chic (what else from Wendling?) environs of concrete and corrugated iron are softened by a glass-encased reed feature wall and a gently lit bar daubed with lush jungle foliage imagery, while tucked into a cosy corner are several hanging wicker chairs, where early arrivers can sip on Thai-style cocktails. Dishes range from light and fresh snacks like the pomelo and prawn salad topped with toasted coconut shavings, to complex flavoursome curries, including a sumptuous lamb shank braised in a spicy massaman sauce, best had spooned over rice or mopped up with some stretchy roti. The wine list borrows a good selection of European drops from Cuivre, and several of the staff have also migrated from downstairs meaning service is already top-notch. T-rrific.

2/F / 1502 Huaihai Zhong Lu / Xuhui / +86 21 6437 9633 / noon-2pm Sat-Sun, 6-10.30pm Wed-Mon

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