A Daring Debut
After what felt like a long absence from the Parisian culinary scene, lauded chef David Toutain has returned to the fore with his first own venture: a pared-back 35-seat bistro which, in a nation of meateaters, audaciously allows the humble veg to take pride of place on his pretty, seasonal plates. Such gall is hardly surprising, however, when you consider that Toutain cut his teeth at the madly experimental L’Agapé Substance. The similarities end there, however, as the latter’s modern, brushed fittings and garishly futuristic lighting have been abandoned in favour of floor-to-ceiling windows, natural light, minimal white-walled décor, and sparse wood furnishings.
As evening falls, the coolly understated restaurant unveils three different tasting menus: the Polypode (68€, or 118€ with wine pairing), the Reine des Prés (98€ or 158€ with pairing) and the truffle-centric Menu Truffe (158€ or 210€ with pairing), which have all been conceptualised on the day, omakase-style. That said, previous menus have included standout dishes like colourful roasted carrots with a white chocolate cream; crab wafers with avocado; cockles, razor clams and fennel sorbet powder; and an oyster with a tart yuzu-kiwi dressing. Be prepared to book well in advance or opt for the lunchtime menu, which is an absolute steal at 42€!
29 rue Surcouf, 7th / +33 1 45 50 11 10 / lunch & dinner Mon-Fri / davidtoutain.com