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French Fancy

October 25, 2016
Le Coucou
A playful neon bird sign and custom-wood planters filled with climbing vines of jasmine and rose welcome you at the entrance. With its lofty space, dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows, romance-revving, pewtered-steel chandeliers and candlelit white tablecloths, Le Coucou whispers seductively ‘date night’.
 
Decor is by NY duo Roman and Williams, with blue-grey mohair banquettes and olive-upholstered vintage Thonet armchairs contrasting with whitewashed brick walls and exposed concrete ceilings. The food is equally wow-inducing.
 
An elegant, old-school glam, unashamedly luxuriant French restaurant, on SoHo’s Lafayette Street, this New York newbie is by American-born, Gallic-trained chef Daniel Rose (of Paris hot spots Spring and La Bourse et La Vie) and restaurateur Stephen Starr (whose other hits include Upland and Buddakan).
 
Le Coucou is currently serving breakfast and dinner, but plans are afoot to offer brunch and lunch soon. Meander by in the morning for pain au chocolat, omelettes with Gruyère, and French pancakes with blueberries and crème fraîche. For dinner order classic Gallic fare, made with tasty locally sourced ingredients. Kick off with warmed oysters with seaweed butter, leeks with hazelnuts, or veal terrine. Move on to pheasant for two Alsace-style, with foie gras and stuffed cabbage. Rabbit, beef, duck and lobster also beckon. Wrap up with chocolate mousse, thyme sorbet or a selection of cheeses. A smart edit of French wines and classy cocktails adds chutzpah. Délicieux!

Le Coucou / 138 Lafayette St / SoHo / +1 212 271 4252 / 7am-10.30am Mon-Fri & 7am-noon Sat-Sun, 5-10pm Sun-Mon & 5-11pm Tue-Sat / lecoucou.com

Photos © Corry Arnold & Ditte Isager

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