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Modest Diner, Massive Flavours

April 22, 2014
Dover
There’s no denying that glam Gothamites frequent some of the most stylish restaurants in the world, from lavish UES diners to achingly hip haunts in Williamsburg, and although we love a good fit-out, it can be refreshing to find a restaurant that rejects any distraction from its food. Perhaps this is what chefs Joseph Ogrodnek and Walker Stern (founders of rave success Battersby) had in mind with Dover, a blank-walled space of bare tables, black banquettes, and simple bentwood chairs. Whatever their intentions, New York patrons and the cream of the critics agree that the food speaks for itself...

Early à-la-carte standouts include the broiled Wellfleet oysters baked under a creamy sauce Choron with horseradish; roasted cauliflower with toasted hazelnuts and raisins; and the whole roast chicken for two with an excellent winter vegetable gratin. Portions are invariably generous, so the seven-course tasting menu could prove challenging but tempting nonetheless with plates like Nantucket Bay scallop buttermilk crudo; black bass in a barigoule Sauce; and a cheesecake mousse with a Verjus-infused pear sorbet and almond streusel. But as well as the crowd-pleasing food, the mainly Old World accompaniments, which vary from reasonable (a US$ 42 Galician Albariño) to special occasion (a US$ 260 Pinot Noir 1er Cru), have proved a hit with the locals. Move over for Dover, Brooklyn!

412 Court Street, Carroll Gardens
+1 347 987 3545
Monday - Saturday: 5:30 pm - 11:00 pm, Sunday: 5:30 pm - 10.30 pm
doverbrooklyn.com
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