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Mod American Saucery

July 07, 2015
Bâtard

Chef Markus Glocker may have honed his craft under the expletively explosive Gordon Ramsay, but the name of his first solo venture, Bâtard, refers to something rather less rude than you’d immediately assume.

Like the two predecessors of its prime Tribeca posi (also funded by renowned restaurateur Drew Nieporent), the moniker evokes a specific Burgundy appellation, and drops hints at what is to be expected on the table.

It doesn’t, however, give the game away. Eschewing the fuss and fastidiousness associated with old-fashioned fine dining, Bâtard welcomes a new era of nouveau American prix fixe amid a buzzy and, at times, boisterous atmos.

Herringbone flooring, undressed tables and an opinion-dividing golden bas-relief set the scene, against which Glocker’s creations take centre stage. Signature dishes of the Austrian auteur include his innovative octopus ‘pastrami’, the beef Wellington-esque veal tenderloin ‘tramezzini’, and the poussin schnitzel – a perennial special.

For dessert, heed the advice of maître d’ and resident turophile John Winterman – choose the cheese. He sources almost all of them locally, except for the occasional block smuggled south across the border, and they make an impressive finale to an already impressive meal.

Wine-wise, the list features a predictably strong lineup of Burgundies, including the restaurant’s namesake (natch), plus a top crop of whites from Glocker’s corner of the world. And did we mention this eatelier was recently named ‘Best New Restaurant’ at the James Beard Awards 2015? So tarry not – book now!

239 W Broadway / Tribeca / +1 212 219 2777 / dinner Mon-Sat / myriadrestaurantgroup.com

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