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Venice Via Japan

March 10, 2014
As the buzz surrounding Greenwich Village fine-diner All’Onda finally reached a crescendo with its opening last month, gourmands may have heard the dreaded term ‘fusion’ rattling along the New York’s culinary grapevine. But executive chef Chris Jaeckle and his business partner Chris Cannon (who met while working at Michael White’s Ai Fiori) insist that the concept is Italian, more specifically Venetian, with just a delicate suggestion of Japanese flavours and ingredients. And if the venue – with its white marble bar, hexagon-tiled floors, bare brick walls and rough wooden tables – is anything to go by, they’re just about spot on.

The seafood-centric menu starts with crudi like buttery Kampachi with curls of crisp red kuri squash, pickled pepperoncini shavings, and a soy-olive dressing; and cicchetti (the Venetian equivalent of tapas) such as crostini topped with monkfish liver, persimmon, and caramelised onions. Jaeckle also excels with his handmade pasta including an updated and wildly popular version of carbonara made with bucatini, smoked uni, spicy breadcrumbs and a dashi stock with parmesan. The marriage of Italian and Japanese flair continues on the cocktail list, where The Merchant, a syrupy mix of sake, Campari and Rhum Agricole, serves as a fab pre-prandial treat before embarking on Cannon’s 150-strong Italian wine list. Eccellente... or should we say, subarashii!

22 East 13th Street
+1 212 231 2236
Sun - Thu: 5:30 pm - 11:00 pm Sun-Thu, Fri-Sat: 5:30 pm - 12:00 am