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Fuss-Free French Fare

April 01, 2015
Brasserie CiÇou

Having sharpened his knives at various Mich-starred restaurants across Paris, seasoned pan-handler Cyrille Soenen is certainly no stranger to fussy French fare. So it may come as some surprise that his eponymous eatery in Manila, Brasserie CiÇou (which is his nickname), eschews the foam and faffery in favour of hearty, gutsy, homely rustic flavours. And the move away from his white-linen training has certainly paid off – his humble bistro boasts one of the city’s most die-hard foodie followings.

In the kitchen, Soenen cooks up a storm, while his wife Anna manages the front of house, ensuring friendly service in a warm, cosy nest of wooden furniture, colourful murals and wine bottle chandeliers. Unabashedly carb-heavy must-tries include the goat’s cheese-topped mesclun salad with pain de campagne; beef bourguignon with pasta tossed in cream and parsley; and a Breton puff pastry-like cake topped with homemade vanilla cinnamon swirl ice-cream. Of course, to keep it a strictly Gallic affair, pair with a bottle from the largely French-sourced wine list with appellations like a Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Plan de Dieu by Ferraton Père & Fils. Santé!

57 Annapolis St / Greenhills / San Juan / +63 2 661 9200 / 7am-11pm Tue-Sun / restaurantcicou.com
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