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Modern Sichuanese

February 06, 2014

Yun Yan


Local spice addicts should be delighted, if not ecstatic, to discover that Yun Yan (previously the famous Yunyan Sichuan Restaurant) reopened in December, and is now sating all heat-seeking palates in its bright new location atop bustling Times Square. The new iteration of the Sichuan spot has seen a decidedly C.21st decor update – the casual dining room is now bedecked in a vibrant colour palette, with bamboo detailing, an expansive painting of the terraced Yunnan rice paddies stretching across the back wall, and an appetizer bar encircling the show kitchen. To the relief of its devotees, however, the fiery fare (featuring over 20 types of Sichuan chilies) remains much the same.

Chef Kenny Chan, who has been a permanent fixture in the kitchen since the restaurant’s founding in 1994, offers old favourites (sautéed mud crab served with rice cakes with pickled pepper, and chili broth poached slices of rib eye) alongside hot new additions like diced chicken in red chili oil, and Sichuan smoked cherry duck. Tastebuds sufficiently numbed (or should we say singed?), the desserts offer some sweet relief – try our personal cooling favourite, the tofu crème brûlée. Or for the more hardcore heat junkies, keep the tingle going with spice-inflected ice creams like drunken chili chocolate and vanilla & Sichuan peppercorn – hot!
 
10/F / Times Square / 1 Matheson St / Causeway Bay /
+852 2375 0800 /
noon-4pm & 6pm-11pm daily /
http://www.miradining.com/

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