Hong Kong’s Soho district is without doubt one of the city’s busiest neighbourhoods, packed with winding streets full of hip restaurants and bars; but always quieter on the culinary front was the staircased Shin Hing Street strip, but a stiletto’s toss down the hill. Not so anymore, with the addition of French hideaway Cocotte, from brother duo Jonathan and Brice Moldova. A relaxed and intimate, Parisian-inspired 36-seater brasserie, the space emanates chic, understated elegance with lush green tufted banquettes, a funky assortment of wallpapers from designer Candace Campos, and striated marble surfaces.
Meanwhile, the kitchen is helmed by chef Patrick Dang (former Mandarin Oriental Hotel chef de cuisine), who uses mostly seasonal ingredients to refine and elevate rustic French classics. Take his version of a classic Nicoise salad, served with seared toro tuna; his guinea fowl two ways (tender roasted breasts with sautéed peas and romaine lettuce, and fricasséed thighs on rich morel and truffle spaghetti); and the lovely ‘First Seasonal Berries’, fresh berries served with creamy fromage blanche and miniature peaks of lavender meringue. Pair with a bottle off the comprehensive, mainly French wine list, including bottles of E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2009 and 2010 Alain Chabanon Le Petit Merle Aux Alouettes. Cocotte; or should we say cocoon!
9 Shin Hing St / NoHo / Central / +852 2568 8857 / dinner Tue - Sun / cocotte.hk