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Mod-Chinese to Please

August 25, 2014
Ho Lee Fook
What’s in a name? In the case of recently opened Soho restaurant Ho Lee Fook, the cheeky moniker tells you quite a bit; in Chinese the term means ‘good fortune for your mouth’, while in English it sounds not unlike a commonly used expletive. The playful phrase is an apt fit for the new open-kitchen eatery that’s fast gaining a rep for its reinvented Chinese dumplings and home-style staples that blithely incorporate pan-Asian and European influences.
Inspired by the old cha chaan tengs (tea houses) once a common sight around Hong Kong, the large basement space updates the concept for the modern diner with dim industrial lighting, dark polished wood wall installations featuring cut-out Chinese characters, and anime murals. The mod-Sino menu comes courtesy of Taiwan-born chef Jowett Yu (best known for Sydney’s Mr Wong and Ms G) and boasts plenty of revamped hawker-style favourites like the signature cabbage and pork dumplings with chilli-spiked sacha soy dressing, plus well-sized mains including classic Taiwanese lu rou pork and prawn lo mein elevated with French-style shellfish oil and crispy garlic. The beverage program also spans the globe with wines from Europe and Australia, Chinese-inspired cocktails and Japanese sake, plus there are a few fusion desserts to finish – don’t miss the tart passionfruit sorbet with coconut marshmallow, pomelo and crunchy roasted rice. Ho lee fook, indeed!  

1 Elgin St / Central / +852 2810 0860 / 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun /