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The New Italian

August 26, 2014
Osteria Langhe
In a city already heaving with Italian eateries, from classic institutions like Spiaggia to the deep-dish pizza joints of the Near North, bringing something inventive to the already overflowing table is no mean feat. Step forward then Osteria Langhe, the new Logan Square restaurant garnering praise from both critics and crowds alike for its fresh take on the beloved cuisine. Helmed by owner Aldo Zaninotto and chef Cameron Grant, the white-walled, wood-countered wine-and-diner eschews familiar southern staples like pizza and pasta in favour of the regional specialities of Piemonte, an Alp-encircled region in Italy’s north-west.

Local and imported ingredients are utilised to their full, flavoursome potential in a well-crafted selection of antipasti dishes including scallops with sweet breads, carne cruda, and snail confit with leeks and garlic. There isn’t a string of spaghetti in sight in the three primi courses, though you will find a rich egg tajarin with a meat ragù that stands tall against any Bolognese, while mains feature crowd-pleasers like honey-glazed roast chicken, and braised rabbit with peppers and pork belly. As at any good Turino trattoria, wine takes centre stage, and here more than 70 Piemontese vintages plus a few champagnes comprise the solid offering. And while Piemonte is not known for its desserts, Osteria Langhe doesn’t disappoint in the sweet-tooth department, with daily-changing varieties of panna cotta and decadent cioccolato. Nuovo e delizioso!

2824 W Armitage Ave / Logan Square / +1 773 661 1582 / 5.30-10pm Mon-Thu, 5.30-11pm Fri-Sat, 5.30-9pm Sun, bar service 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat / osterialanghe.com
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