The façade of newly opened Beverly Grove bistro Marvin isn’t much to look at with its understated monochrome awning and clean cream walls, but pass through the doorway and a spacious expanse of worn parquet floors, bentwood bar stools, preloved communal tables and lighting installations made from inverted aluminium cans reveals an easy-going, old-fashioned charm that’s had local diners piling in for signature steak-frites and well-chosen pairings.
The restaurant’s name is an amalgamation of the surname of restaurateur, Bruce Marder (also of Capo and Cora's Coffee Shop), and vin, the French word for wine. But the latter certainly isn’t an afterthought with more than 20 (mostly) European wines available by the glass and even more by the bottle. The food menu ranges from tasty sharable snacks like charcuterie and cheeses, best mulled over at the long marble bar, to generous mains including a succulent braised lamb neck with mint and porchetta, and a heap of truffle-spiked spaghetti bolognese. Desserts keep to simple crowd-pleasing classics like strawberries with crème fraîche, and the on-point pot de crème with a dark chocolate mousse, caramel sauce and vanilla cream to cut through the richness. Marv-ellous.
8114 Beverly Blvd / Beverly Grove / +1 323 655 5553 / 5pm-12am Tue-Sun / chezmarvin.com