In keeping with its pared-back menu, the L’Assiette space harkens back to simpler, mid-C.20th times, when wood paneled walls and crisp white linens were all that was required to frame the culinary offering. The grilled sirloins and piles of crunchy pomme frites are preceded by the diner’s choice of either soup or salad with baguette, with cheeses and pastries served as optional extras if you’ve any room left post meat and carb fest. Naturally, and especially given the decorative bottle installation along one restaurant wall, wine is the preferred accompaniment, and thankfully the options are more plentiful than that of the food menu – a chalk scrawled blackboard announces the 20-odd featured labels. Allons-y, à table!
In this culinary age of back-to-basics cuisine and simplified techniques, it’s a formerly widespread trend reemerging the world over: restaurants specialising in but one signature dish, perfectly prepared to nigh on faultless consistency. From NYC’s down south homage Empire Biscuit to Hong Kong’s bun-tastic Little Bao, it seems singular spells success for a generation of up-and-coming chefs. And while the classic French staple steak frites has always been found front and centre at many a Parisian bistro, the niche dish is joining the ranks of global specialist plates, most recently via new LA brasserie L’Assiette.
7166 Melrose Ave / +1 323 274 2319 / dinner daily / lassiettesteakfrites.com