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Brutal Beauty

August 29, 2016
Bunker
Brutalism is back, baby! With a recent Phaidon book dedicated to the once-loathed tough-love architectural form, we’re falling back in love with raw concrete with attitude...

So, walking into new Bangkok restaurant Bunker you could be forgiven for thinking you had wandered into a multi-storey car park. Brutally modernist, rough concrete surfaces backdrop a minimal mid-century dining space, lined with sleek leather banquettes in offbeat olive-yellow, and retro yellow- and aqua-upholstered wooden chairs. A vast, lozenge-shaped window offers views of an airy, plant-dotted terrace beyond.

One of the year’s most anticipated openings, this startling space is helmed by Arnie Marcella (protege of Mich-spangled Brit/NY culinary genius Paul Liebrandt). Arnie’s fresh, simple flavour-packed New American small plates attract a cool young crowd, keen to sample his quality, sustainable produce.

An energetic blend of “southern comfort, New York classics, Mexican zest, the freshest pickings from Thai markets and farms, and the world’s finest foods, from Wagyu to foie gras,” prettily plated dishes are seasonal yet surprising. Start with red Alaskan king crab with spicy aioli and charred limes, move on to crispy sea bass chowder, then wrap it up with Thai basil meringue. A serious drinks list, from vino to cocktails and craft beer, ensures casj fine-diner Bunker never runs dry. Get social on the balcony, sound-tracked by DJ tunes.
Bunker / 118/2 Soi Suksa (Sathorn 12) / +66 92 563 9991 / dinner Mon-Sat / bunkerbkk.com
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