Irié Le Joyeux
When you’ve worked in no less than five 3-star Michelin restaurants as well as earning 2 stars while apprenticing at Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo, it’s pretty likely that you know your onions, and a fair few other vegetables and ingredients too. So it was with fanfare and trepidation that Makoto Irié opened his first standalone restaurant (reportedly named by M. Gagnaire) in Tokyo’s upmarket Aoyama district – the result garnering praise as much for Irié’s skill and attention to detail as for his exquisite presentation. With a sensual and minimalist ‘naturals and neutrals’ approach to decor, the focus is firmly on the plate, with ingredients ranging from persimmon and perilla to chrysanthemum, Nagano Gila mushrooms and Japanese Gion chilli pepper.
Through the slash of glass set into the wave-plastered dining room, the kitchen is visible, with nimble hands plating set piece after set piece of edible art, each dish a jewel-hued masterclass in colour and texture, with two lunch and two dinner set menus to choose from. From a carpaccio of Hokkaido scallop with caviar, cabbage and wasabi chevre, to slow-roasted Akaushi beef with a Syrah reduction, roast onions and ricotta, it surely won’t be long before the Michelin inspectors come calling. Book now and you could be one of the lucky 30 diners for chef Irié’s one-night only Perrier-Jouët collaboration dinner on 30th November. Quel joie!