Theatre Of Taste
Ok, so this is one of those of ‘love it or loathe it’ moments. If (dare we utter the word) molecular dining still floats your boat, and you like your dinner served with a large side order of theatre and faff, then grab your camera and hit the phone now for Flatiron, the Tokyo American Club’s fine diner, that has elevated eating to an art form. Three times a night from Tuesday to Saturday, four diners sit down to the 2-hour cavalcade of 10-courses (you can elect to add 5 or 8 wine pairings too).
From Bling Bling Bouillabaisse (saffron clam broth with a fish and scallop mousse) to Playing Doctor (US grain-fed striploin with New Zealand scampi and black truffle juice served in a hypodermic syringe – no, really), the names are as inventive as the presentation (yes, there’s plenty of gelification, spherification and nitrogen-gas), but all this would of course be meaningless if the dishes weren’t good. And they are good – for instance, a sublimely fresh burrata comes with olive and roast tomato flatbreads crisped in front of you, while the breakfast-inspired hotcake with pancetta and foie gras is served with a sublime autumnal blackberry compote. Go hungry and wide-eyed for entertainment, and you won’t go far wrong.