Delicious Simplicity in a bowl

Ebisu Udon Yamacho

Every cuisine in the world has a staple comfort dish with ingredients beloved by one and all, and in Japan that honour arguably falls to udon, the wheat-flour noodles served hot in soup during winter, and cold in summer, both with a myriad of toppings.

Indeed the flexibility of udon is the chief reason for its popularity, served thin, or preferably thick, but always al dente. Tucked away in Ebisu, where it has quietly become one of the favourite haunts of clued-in foodies (not least because it stays open until 4.30am), Ebisu Udon Yamacho’s simple warm wood walls, 28 seats and timber communal centre table attracts queues right out of the door at peak times.

With bowls of its richly fragrant signature dashi soup-stock topped with anything from duck to ebi tempura yakumi (seasoned shrimp) or crisp fresh kujo negi (scallions), the need for a bib soon becomes apparent, especially if you opt for the unctuous, saucy curry udon served with silken, soft-boiled egg.

And don’t miss the special pillow-soft mounds of dashi-maki tamago (Japanese omelette) where the house dashi is whisked into the egg mixture and fried to create the perfect, umami-balanced roll. With a decent list of sake, shochu and wine available, and swift and courteous service, Ebisu Udon Yamacho has perfected simplicity in a bowl. Book ahead.