Pre-October 2005, chef Harold Dieterle couldn’t have guessed that by 2013 he’d own three restaurants in New York’s West Village. But such is the power of winning the very first season of the hit US show Top Chef, that December saw his latest venture The Marrow joining his two other successes Perilla and Kin Shop – and if early signs are to be believed, he has another hit on his hands. Taking Germany and Italy as his inspiration, Dieterle’s menu fare crackles along with an impressive riff on classic favourites like juniper-braised lamb neck with rutabaga puree, whole roasted carrots and red sauerkraut, or the unusual pan-fried duck schnitzel with a Quark spaetzle, hazelnuts, cucumber-potato salad and stewed wolfberries.
But its not just on the plate that Marrow sparkles, the cocktail list has its own surprises like Miss Roberts’ Cobbler, a toothsome blend of cognac, red jacket cider, apple butter and pimento dram, or The Old Fiend which features reposado, sombra mezcal, agave, orange bitters and angostura. Add a great list of cheeses like Swiss Challerhocker and semi-soft goat Italian Fiacco ci Capra, excellent Eurocentric wine list (with no less than 19 by the glass) and this clean-lined contempo diner with its picture window kitchen has a rosy future indeed.