Bordeaux on Bowery
Pearl & Ash
Every self-respecting oenophile in New York City will surely by now have heard about the impressive wine list at new downtown restaurant Pearl & Ash, put together by Patrick Cappiello (formerly sommelier at the Palace Hotel’s Gilt restaurant) and deserving recipient of a two-starred thumbs up from Pete Wells last month.
With a focus on the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions, Cappiello’s 300-bottle strong list also has a sizeable Californian presence, and select picks from as far afield as Chile and Lebanon, altogether ensuring this is one of precious few on the hip Bowery strip with such a stocked cellar.
In contrast, the tight edit on chef Richard Kuo’s (formerly Frej and wd-50) food menu sees just 20 dishes covering the spectrum from raw starters to sweet treats: small plates like sweetbreads with hearts of palm and morcilla whet the palate for mains like cauliflower and leek skate and almond and pomegranate quail, with desserts like coffee parfait and fernet-branca ice cream sandwich to finish.
The funky wine bar décor of blond wood, blue velvet cushions, and knick-knack lined shadow boxes is the perfect visual pairing to Pearl & Ash’s modern wining and dining, and it’s little wonder the downtown style set have arrived on this buzzing Bowery doorstep.