Two Senseis in One
Brushstroke / Ichimura at Brushstroke
One is a Tribeca star chef, whose pedigree and eponymous offering (amongst others) catapulted him to the New York dining scene’s loftiest heights. The other is a spotlight-eschewing Edo-mae sushi master with a cult following. David Bouley and Eiji Ichimura might seem to stand at opposite ends of the culinary playing field, but in reality they’re much closer than that. Side by side in fact, under the roof of Bouley’s new joint venture with Japan’s Tsuji Culinary Institute, Brushstroke.
Helmed by Bouley and manned by Tsuji instructors and students, Brushstroke is a deft and exciting modern kaiseki offering, with seasonal tasting menus that reflect the many hours of planning and testing that Bouley and his partners have obviously invested. Winter dishes such as golden crab egg custard, sesame infused cod with black sesame smoke and hojicha tea-infused seared duck breast stand smartly at the intersection of art and taste, and shine in the serene steel, stone and wood surrounds. And then there is the sushi. From his 12-seat counter Ichimura at Brushstroke, the soft-spoken chef delivers gracious service and bold, wonderful flavours directly descendent of traditional street stall-style ‘cured’ fish and rice preparations in omakase (chef’s choice) menus starting from US$150. Needless to say, the double-barrel star power behind this venture makes it popular, so book ahead. Back to school you go!