Mod Americana in Midtown
Having donned the executive sous chef’s hat in New York’s fabled Eleven Madison Park, Bryce Shuman certainly knows his way around a modern American menu. But following his departure from Daniel Humm’s 3 Michelin-starred kitchen, this May saw the opening of Shuman’s own restaurant Betony, in collaboration with GM Eamon Rockey (behind Atera
Occupying the former Brasserie Pushkin space in Midtown, Betony is a treat for the eyes – with clubby, dark wood bar lined high with liquors, and a buzzy, bi-level dining area fitted with amber lighting, gilded mirrors and tufted golden banquettes – as much as it is for the taste buds.
The simplicity of Betony’s menu calls to mind Eleven Madison Park’s famous own prix-fixe, with 18 deceivingly simple offerings running the seasonal gamut. From the summer menu, starters feature marinated trout roe (served with puffed rice and cucumber) and Shuman’s take on the tuna melt (here topped with Fontina on brioche).
For mains, the potato gnocchi with corn and purslane has proved a repeat crowd-pleaser, while grilled short rib with sweetbreads, roasted chicken with chanterelles and Tokyo turnips, and poached lobster with dill and summer beans round out the meat offerings. If the success of EMP is anything to go by; Betony is definitely one to watch – and taste!