The Globetrotter Returns
After a spell in Paris spent studying at Le Cordon Bleu, gal about town Stephanie Zubiri returned to Manila a few years ago to open Atelier 317, her very own chef’s table, accommodating a mere fourteen people in a quaint residential living room. However, by popular demand the venture has now expanded into a full-service restaurant serving up to 50 people in the up-and-coming Poblacion neighbourhood.
Although Zubiri’s extensive travels are evident in the restaurant’s assortment of curiosities like botanical lithographs from Paris, odd bits of colourful crockery picked up in Vietnam and Germany, and an assortment of mismatched vintage chairs, it’s the multicultural menu that really stands out from Rockwell’s deluge of overly-commercialised restaurants.
Staying true to her Parisian inspirations, Zubiri has established a ‘café du quartier’ feel with long-standing favourites like Moroccan-spiced lamb gyoza with a harissa yogurt, and moist pumpkin and ginger cake topped with cream cheese frosting, while new travel-inspired Asian bites like Cha Ca La Vong dory fillet sautéed in turmeric and lemongrass and served over rice noodles keep the menu fresh. All that said, the unabashedly French wine list serves as a reliable anchor in this sea of international eats. Bon voyage!