Skycraping Spanish Gastronomy
View 62 by Paco Roncero
Two Michelin starred chef Paco Roncero has a reputation, and where you sit on the molecular versus traditional cooking fence will inform whether you think this is a good or bad thing. As he is arguably Spain’s most famous disciple of the celebrated Ferran Adrià, it’s not surprising that spherification, gelification, nitrogen-blasting, fiffery-faffery foamery and a raft of other modernist preparation methods are employed in his kitchens at View 62 – if you’ve ever longed for olive oil in a toothpaste tube, you’re going to love it here.
Set atop Wanchai’s Hopewell Centre on the 62nd floor, the restaurant is accessed via a selection of elevators (take the glass-walled observatory lift to amp up your arrival) that open into Hong Kong’s only revolving dining room, with the most staggering vista of the city and a seductively spacious, contemporary fit-out designed by Ricky Hung Wai Lung, all underneath a ceiling of glimmering golden rods.
So, the food. Well, this is event dining, with a blizzard of menus from 4-course to 16-course, and a cavalcade of scientific innovation, avant garde technique and nouvelle presentation, and it’s not without moments of mouth-bomb magic and genuine surprise – we loved the crispy, caramelised pork skin, and the lobster soup with artichoke, and really loved the 15-hour braised beef shank.
It will be interesting to see what the good masters of Michelin Hong Kong make of View 62 in the 2013 awards, but for now, for its ingenuity, ambience and view alone, it certainly ranks as one of Hong Kong’s most unique destination dining experiences.