Part of a three-pronged modern Japanese dining concept newly opened in Wan Chai’s off-the-beaten-track Oakhill complex (alongside haute fusion restaurant Wagyu Takumi
and 12-seater sushi bar Rozan), Gin Sai fills the trio’s cooked food quota with a complete checklist of Nippon delicacies – from robatayaki to tempura, and shabu shabu to sukiyaki – prepared to perfection in a contemporary, dark wood space of silk-screened doors, hanging lightbulbs, open kitchen and gleaming marble bar.
Though yakitori, ramen, and robatayaki restaurants are a dime a dozen in this town, Gin Sai successfully draws a crowd with its harder-to-find specialties like oden, a comforting sweet soy broth with long-simmering ingredients like radish and tofu, and must-try dishes prepared in the signature bamboo Seiro steamer.
Like an oversized version of traditional Chinese dim sum baskets, the Seiro is here layered with tender A5 Wagyu beef, seafood and vegetables, and steamed tableside, resulting in fresh, delicate flavour profiles that are themselves worth the trip. If the menu is overwhelming with choice, opt for the omakase and let the chef loose – but don’t forget to also ask his recommendation from the concise list of fine Japanese wines, sakes and shochus. Kanpai!