Doughnuts to Dollars
Cronuts? Pah! For a chef who didn’t even train in pastry it comes as some surprise that Enoch Simpson (previously Girl and The Goat
) is most famous in Chicago for his sinful doughnut creations, which ironically weren’t intended for the dining public but for his former colleagues at Nightwood
! Finally, with the help of his carpenter brother Caleb, Simpson debuts all-day diner Endgrain – where his rustic Midwestern beginnings are evident in the 25-seat bar handcrafted from 3,000 pieces of old-growth lumber, stripped-back brick walls, cigar-hued leather benches and the odd wall-mounted deer or boar head.
The focus is on casual American food, starting every morning at 7am with a hot pot of La Colombe coffee and Simpson’s much-lauded reworking of the humble American doughnut. Coming in multiple flavour combos, favourites include melt-in-the-mouth bacon butterscotch, Nutella milkstout, and the sweet-salty ‘doughscuit’ (no prizes for guessing that’s a doughnut-biscuit hybrid) filled with crème fraîche and glazed with honey. But the inventive flavour combinations don’t stop there with offbeat weekend brunch snacks such as kimchi braised pork pie, or smoked trout with a marbled-rye biscuit; and nightly dinner specials like beer-chilli glazed ham chop with a cornbread crumble and rainbow chard. Just be warned that the breakfast doughnuts fly off the shelves, so set your alarm!