America's Best New Restaurant..?
They say the best things come in threes, and here’s the perfect proof: Chef Michael Voltaggio won the sixth season of the US hit food show Top Chef, then opened his own restaurant ink., which Bon Appetit Magazine placed in this year’s Top 50 best new US restaurants, and GQ named as the best new restaurant in America, period. Not so shabby.
Inspired by the diversity of cross-cultural LA, Voltaggio has developed what he calls ‘modern Los Angeles cuisine’, drawing on a whole panoply of scientific technique and a kitchen packed with seriously gastronaut kit, resulting in bold and innovative dishes, both playful and satisfying, that thankfully avoid the increasingly ubiquitous sterility of avant-garde fusion for fusion’s sake.
Despite an unpromising exterior, the spacious and schmick, urban industrial space within pairs polished cement floors and white walls with a no-nonsense bank of veneered-top pedestal tables and a distinct nod to architectural salvage courtesy of designer Clifford Fong, rightly focusing the attention on the food rather than the surrounds.
And what food. A sinful, velvety-centred burrata is paired with egg yolk, crispy gem lettuce and perfectly acidulated lemon dressing; a gloriously robust, earthy dish of pan-blackened brussels sprouts and lardo is cut with sweet apple and topped with shards of crisped and crinkly pig ear. We have an ink.ling this is a keeper.