Svelte From the Veldt
In a culinary world seemingly dominated by European cuisine at one end of the spectrum and arguably obsessed with either Japanese or Peruvian (or sometimes a fusion of both) at the other, it’s distinctly heartening to find a heretofore under-the-radar cuisine coming into its own on the international stage. And it doesn’t get much more international than South African cooking in the capital of China, but that’s exactly what Pinotage is serving in its new industrial chic dining space in Sanlitun complete with standalone wine bar, shop and chef’s table.
With a dizzying array of influences encompassing African, Dutch, French, German and even Chinese, Malay and Indonesian, the menu at Pinotage can be sampled in any of three portion sizes – share, enjoy or taste. Menu highlights include biltong (dried meat) carpaccio with avocado and parmesan, vertoek deep fried dough with bobotie (spiced beef) and tomato chutney, and pork confit with roast banana, mustard puree and pickled onions, but perhaps the star of the show is the umami-rich roasted bone marrow, served on a split shin bone with chanterelle mushrooms, caramelised onions and green chermoula. And don’t forget those fabulous South African wines, with over 25 wineries listed, you’ve no excuse for not expanding your terroir knowledge base. Smaaklike ete!