Quince-Essentially Relaxed Dining
Quince Eatery & Bar
The warm glow through the black, powder-coated, industrial window-wall that greets you as you turn into Sukhumvit soi 45 is the first inkling of the friendly, buzzy welcome waiting at Bangkok newbie Quince.
Risen phoenix-like from the bones of a 1950s villa, channeling the current zeitgeist for modern urban meets prohibition chic, there’s a feast of detail to enjoy, from the ovoid, incandescent, coiled-wire light bulbs suspended above the bar, New York subway glazed-tile backsplash, and exquisitely delicate water glasses. Even the cocktails have provenance – the daiquiri no.3, a sweet-sharp blend of white rum, fresh grapefruit and maraschino liqueur hailed from the legendary Havana bar, La Floridita.
From our perch at the bar we saw at least two tables deftly spooning the contents of rich, roasted marrow bones onto little triangles of toast, and sure enough chef Jess Barnes’ menu reveals a nose-to-tail-ish, market-oriented seasonality, with simplicity as its main ingredient.
A dish of stem-on carrots are roasted with honey and shallots, a firm, porcine rillette arrives in a flip-top preserve jar with crisp-a-crunch pickled watermelon, and our favourite - a plate of oaky, smoky eggplant, with labne and sweet baby onions, comes studded with emerald edamame. No pomp, no circumstance. But very definitely, a happy Quince-idence.