Shanghai in Bangkok
This month we’ve been spotlighting bar-and-restaurateur extraordinaire Ashley Sutton’s amazing venues across Bangkok. We’ve already tumbled into the whimsical Bookshop
and been bewitched by the newly reopened classic Iron Fairies
, but now comes Maggie Choo’s, undoubtedly Sutton’s most sophisticated offering, and yet another spellbinding example of its owner’s visionary eye and touch.
Named for the Shanghainese cabaret owner who fled to Bangkok in 1931, the multi-room space, reached via thick wooden doors and a steep staircase down, channels an exotic, sultry, after-hours-joint look that could easily double as a James Bond film set.
The first room houses a traditional noodle shop, with hanging umbrellas, birdcages and carved wooden objects providing the theatrical element for which Sutton is known, and a smattering of tasty bowls like bamee moo krob (egg noodles with crispy pork) to sate hungry imbibers. More wooden doors open up to reveal a dim-lit second space of tufted leather and velvet sofas, jade lanterns, qipao-clad hostesses reclining on suspended swings, a casino cashier-inspired bar, and yet more doors leading to hidden private rooms.
Joseph Boroski is once again behind the drinks program, a solid beer, whiskey and cocktail offering that includes the HMS Leviathan, a sweet-meets-sour blend of honeycomb-infused bourbon, vermouth and lemon. Visually stunning and painfully hip – of course it’s another Ashley Sutton production!