Progressive Indian Cuisine
Driven, passionate, affable, innovative - its difficult to know where to start to describe chef and owner Gaggan Anand, the Calcutta-born chef and owner of Bangkok’s (if not Asia’s) most exciting Indian restaurant. When he stands at your table describing the evening’s dishes (and he makes it his business to visit every table), the palpable love and excitement with which he speaks makes you feel almost as if he’s speaking about his children.
As the first Indian and only the second Asian to intern at the fabled El Bulli under Ferran Adrià, Anand has succeeded in melding an ancient cuisine with modern technology, bringing forth a whole new panoply of ways to discover the flavours of India.
A ‘reconstruction’ of murgh kali mir (black pepper chicken) combines a distillate of black pepper and fresh curry leaves with supremely soft, delicate sous-vide chicken; freshly made spaghetti aglio e olio arrives with green chillies, parmesan and coriander; oysters appear with crystalline lemon foam and angel flowers. The tasting menu of 10 courses is a great starter pack into the often whimsical world of Gaggan (a dish of foie gras is named ‘The Goose Is Not Cooked’), but for us it’s the curries redux that blow us away each time, and the perfect breads.
An excellent wine list, Fever Tree tonic for the Hendricks gin, a pretty little white-on-white villa tucked away on Langsuan and super-efficient service are all icing on the naan. There’s no doubt that if Michelin were in Thailand, this chef would have a star.